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Florida Stopover

On our way to Guatemala, we had a few days’ stopover in Miami. We decided to use the time to rent a car and explore a little of Southern Florida. A road trip to Key West led us up to a close encounter with this “key deer”, a species tiny in stature, which became critically endangered from hunting and habitat loss. Once widespread, their numbers plummeted to just 25 in the 1950s and now stand at 800 given their legal protection.
We also stopped off at some delightful beaches…
…and enjoyed our staple picnic – hummus and veg.
We had the great surprise of seeing the actual African Queen, ironically located in Key Largo, the setting and name of another favourite Humphrey Bogart film.
We also visited a Turtle Hospital because we love turtles. It felt like a tourist attraction despite being a real hospital for turtles.
The Everglades were also beautiful with numerous pelicans…
…cormorants…
and colourful gallinules
Of course, crocodiles ruled the waters
but the best surprise was to get up close for the first time to manatees.
Miami gave us a mix of delight and horror. Its famous string of art deco architecture on South Beach was magnificent, but the beach itself was not our cup of tea: crowded, noisy, with trash everywhere. We were also the oldest and most clothed in the area, so we were clearly not the target audience.
We made a quick visit to Little Havana which was charming for its Cuban culture – cigar shops, cafes, live concerts and this domino club for the over 55s – but the place was jam packed with tourists, so it all felt more like a show than the real thing.
It was such a pleasure to see American cousins we had not seen for 20 years…
…and to just carry on the conversations where we left off 20 years ago.
We also met with Canadian cousins who were in Florida for the winter, so called “snowbirds”, on Jeff’s side…
…and Sylvie’s side.

Volunteering in Guatemala

This was our first view of Guatemala and what a view. The country is famous not just for its volcanoes but also for its chocolate, coffee, cuisine. colourful fabrics and Mayan culture. What’s not to like?
We volunteered for six weeks at this great charity based in a tiny village 8km from the small town of Tecpan. Projectsomos.org supports an indigenous community who suffer from deprivation, a lack of education and poor nutrition. Their first language is Kaqchikel.
We were so inspired by the vision of the founders; by local workers who have endured incredibly painful lives with the most amazing strength and have still retained a wonderful sense of humour;; and by the unbound affection we received from everyone. The results achieved by Project Somos activities are astounding.
The stunning scenery at Project Somos, with eight volcanoes surrounding us.
Every morning, we opened the front door of our home to bright sunshine and the sound of this hilarious trumpet playing bird called a Clarinero (male) or Zanate (female). Interestingly, they have different dialects in different countries as they sound very different in Costa Rica.
Our most awe-inspiring and unforgettable moment was to see a nearby volcano erupt, thankfully from a safe distance.
Jeff taught English to the 16-18 year old girls…
…and mainly audited the charity’s accounts and wrote some policies and grant applications with the help of lovely colleagues.
Sylvie mostly helped in the kitchen…
…and became close to the chefs (here with Norma) and sometimes surprised them with her own recipes: so, a glut of beetroots led to a sweet beetroot ‘tzimmes’, served as a snack.
Yoli, the head chef adapted and adopted that tzimmes recipe which might now just start a life of its own in Guatemala.
One of the main themes of the charity is teach about good nutrition and to provide organic produce from its huge garden.
The children love to learn and they are being raised by Project Somos with so much respect and love
Nutrition is at the centre of all learning and here it’s combined with arithmetic to bake enough bread for the village.
Our home was very pretty and comfortable compared to other places where we have volunteered, complete with oven, fridge, flushing toilet and hot water!
We shared our home with some beautifully kind and charming volunteers, all of course young enough to be our children, in some cases our grandchlldren! Yet, as big kids ourselves, we all got on so well that the age difference made no difference at all.
During our stay, we were pleased to meet several visitors on music and photography retreats from the US and Canada. The children adored presentations of the photographers’ shots and this concert which was probably the first time many had heard folk music – even the baby snuggled in the papoose was waving his hand!
At a feast with the most delicious home made pizzas overlooking the spectacular scenery.

Weekend Trips

First and foremost at weekends, we visited our local market to stock up on food for the week.
Evereywhere we turned was always a delightful surprise
And some were surprised to see us gringos too.
Only once did we opt to take a notorious chicken bus – so called because locals use them to carry livestock between towns – in which belongings frequently go missing, including one of our credit cards! Thankfully, we felt peace and love everywhere else we went but we heard stories which reminded us why Guatemala has a reputation of being a dangerous place in Latin America.
We had seen 6 kids on the same motorbike in India, but this was a first for us.
Ancient Mayan ruins called Iximche were just 30 mins away from our charity.
Taking a rest on the altar for sacrifices is not so dangerous these days.
A Mayan fire ceremony was taking place on the grounds when we visited
The most delicious food awaited us at the end of our visit.
We spent 5 days on Lake Atitlan, a magical place surrounded by volcanoes.
We spent our break reading by the lake…
…visiting the different lakeside villages…
…and taking advantage of the international food everywhere. Hummus at last and an excellent one!
We discovered that every village, not just around Atitlan, wore a pattern unique to their local community, similar to Scottish kilts.
Regardless of their dress, they were all so beautiful and friendly.
The Reserva Natural Atitlan is home to waterfalls, hanging bridges
which felt a bit precarious at times…
…lots of coatis
and butterflies everywhere.
But our most beautiful and authentic experience was stumbling upon a school fete
The children were dressed so exquisitely in their local costumes

Trip to Antigua, Guatemala

Antigua is a beautiful UNESCO heritage town, founded in 1542. We were lucky to be there during Lent and Semana Santa, not just for the street parades but this was the time when these glorious jacaranda trees blossom. Our stay was like a traditional holiday, we even stayed in a hotel! And we ate so well and had so much hot chocolate that by the time we left, it was running through our veins.
Apart from the occasional earthquake which left some buildings like this one in ruins, Antigua’s layout has remained the same.
It is really charming, where every single street is cobbled and full of beautiful courtyards.
Plus lovely plazas
…and quirky places like this centuries old laundry square.
The market was one of the most engaging we have seen…
…with some beautiful sights to behold.
The market spilt over everywhere…here buying bread off the back of a lorry…
…and people sold their wares in the most unusual ways.
We sat next to this lovely lady in a chicken bus en route to the village San Antonio Aguas calientes
She was a master weaver and embroiderer…
…seduced by the explosion of colours, we of course bought a few things.
We were in town to see a spectacular parade for Semana Santa, which in Guatemala starts with Lent, although these kids did’t look so fortunate to carry this wooden float.
Pepian, the national dish of Guatemala, nomally made with fowl or chicken, here in a vegan iteration.
Extraordinary seasonal desserts at Fonda de la Calle Real. Chickpeas with honey – it works! – and mole antigueno: fried plantains smothered in a chocolate, tomato and chili sauce. So good. Who knew?

Guatemala Appendix

The least amusing adventure of our travels so far…Jeff needed an emergency operation for appendicitis in a hospital in the Guatemalan outback. Thankfully, all went well in the end.
But along the way, this adventure was the stuff of nightmares. Our nearest hospital was filthy which is why we chose a not so local one. We even saw dirty hands being washed in this sink supposedly reserved for surgical instruments. The hospital we found 1 hour away was thankfully clean but some routine things made us think of Fawlty Towers…hilarious to recount afterwards but terrifying in the moment.
On a happier note, our dental tourism – just for a routine cleanse – worked a treat. The clinic was spotless and the dentist amazing.
Ending with an inspiring story about this lad who, like us, once volunteered at Project Somos. The poor boy got leukemia and a foundation gave him one of those last “let’s make your dream come true” wishes like Disneyland, but he opted instead to build a clinic in the community served by Project Somos. The foundation responded saying “that’s not on our list of wishes we can offer”, but the boy’s family fought for his wish to be fulfilled and his dream came true. The boy made a full recovery and became a doctor because of his experience at Project Somos.

Next

First back to Paris and London, then onto Southern Netherlands and then another trip to India.

11 Comments. Leave new

  • Nikki Webster
    March 20, 2023 12:44 pm

    So relieved to hear Jeff is okay! And that you found hummous! Please do keep all the inspiring stories and photos coming; they really do warm the heart on a cold day in London x

    Reply
  • Hassoun
    March 20, 2023 1:00 pm

    heureusement que cette affaire d’appendicite s’est finalement bien passé. Encore une sacrée expérience. Bonne continuation à vous deux. Bises.
    Ralph.

    Reply
  • James Curtis
    March 20, 2023 2:12 pm

    Volcanoes, rope bridges and sacrificial altars. You really are in an Indiana Jones movie!

    Reply
  • Lily and Cedric
    March 20, 2023 2:44 pm

    Sylvie and Jeff
    Wow another amazing experience thoroughly enjoyed by us. And this is continuing to your next adventure. The photography and comments are so easy to understand and enjoy. Pleased to know all went well with the op. Thank you for sharing and wish you a continued journey now. I think you mentioned India (hooe I am right). Looking forward to hearing about your next experience.
    ❤️ love and blessing
    Lily and Cedric
    💐👍🍾🎉🌈y

    Reply
  • Rayeesa
    March 20, 2023 5:48 pm

    Glad to know that you both are safe . As always the i enjoyed reading the blog and the pictures were remarkable. Looking forward to your next adventure and hope to see you soon here in India.😊

    Reply
  • Alex Richedoller
    March 20, 2023 7:59 pm

    Hi Jeff & Sylvie, Greatly enjoyed your latest blog. and nice to read that there are nice parts of Guatemala as all I have ever read is about the gun fights/homicide. I am afraid my tennis days are over but at 92 no complaints. I was fine upto the end of October but diagnosed with a heart condition which affects breathing after exertion. I will go to the second Seder at Sukkat. Keep up the good work.

    Reply
  • Geoffrey
    March 21, 2023 7:49 am

    Hi Sylvie & Jeff
    Firstly , so happy Jeff made a good recovery.
    I am honoured to have included a photo of my brother, wife and me in Florida.
    Your technique of description over a photo makes reading so real and interesting. Makes our visit next year to Costa Rica come to life.
    Thanks for sharing
    Look forward to seeing you soon.

    Reply
  • Fiona Hulbert
    March 21, 2023 3:12 pm

    We are relieved to hear Jeff’s op went well. What a scary adventure. Stick to the interesting and valuable projects, colourful markets, warm and generous people and the awesome scenery! All continued good wishes to you on your travels across the world. Fiona and David x

    Reply
  • Marta Cristina Rodriguez Santa Cruz
    March 26, 2023 11:28 am

    So glad to know you are both safe and sound! Such an interesting experience in Guatemala! Hope to see you again sometime, in the near future! Love to y both from Argentina! By the way, we visited El Calafate and El Chalten, amazing views!!

    Reply
  • Reeva Godson
    May 4, 2023 2:52 pm

    I have at last caught up with your latest adventure always so amazingly informative. Good to see you both not so long ago. Safe future travels and take care.

    Reply
  • Reeva Godson
    May 4, 2023 2:56 pm

    Another great trip! Good to see you both not so long ago. Safe travels and looking forward to the next episode.

    Reply

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